20/05/2014

Where There's A Will There's A Way

This Sunday the Spanish go to the polls to vote in elections to the European Parliament, and so voting slips have begun arriving in our mailbox from the various political parties. I have to say, they are not very helpful. The list gives the names of all those on the party's list of candidates from which, depending on the share of the vote gained, MEPs will be selected. Unfortunately they say absolutely nothing about the candidates, not even whereabouts in Spain they might be found. In addition there is a sheet in the envelope which sets out in the very briefest of terms what the party stands for.

The expectation is that two parties will dominate the results, PSOE (socialist) and PP (conservative). Both parties are deeply unpopular, but there are no credible alternatives to make inroads into their hegemony. In the same way, national, regional and provincial governments are either PSOE or PP led. The minor parties are either out towards the extremes like IU ( united left, a grouping of communist and anarchist parties) or regional like PA ( the Andalucian Party), which I support in local elections, and which runs the town hall in Frigiliana and a handful of other towns. Otherwise, these are small parties with big ambitions but few converts, like UPyD (calling for a complete reform of the democratic process in Spain to give a more effective voice to the ordinary citizen). A cynical analysis of Spanish politics describes a vicious circle which I suspect would find a sympathetic response from many British voters; I shall give you the less coarse version.

You elect PSOE

They screw you, so

You elect PP

They screw you, so

You elect PSOE

Continue ad infinitum.

A friend in Madrid explained to me his predicament as someone disillusioned with both main parties. He has no desire to vote for either, but is not drawn towards any of the minor parties either. So he could abstain from voting. But that would be of advantage to the main parties because their active supporters will find it easier to build up their percentage share of the vote, which gets them more seats. Alternatively, he could register a 'voto en blanco'. This apparently means that you take into the booth the envelope given to you to hold your voting slip. You seal it without putting any slip inside, then emerge and post it into the ballot box. Unfortunately, this also benefits the two major parties. Although the envelope is empty it counts as a valid vote; minor parties must achieve a minimum of 3% of the votes cast in order to qualify for any seats. Your valid vote makes it harder for them by increasing the number of votes cast, and therefore increasing the number of votes needed to achieve 3%. He has a solution, however; the 'voto nul'. You take the envelope into the booth and place in it TWO party slips, seal it and pop it into the ballot box. That is not allowed, and so your vote is not valid and is not counted. I must admit that I admire the ingenuity. 


07/05/2014

Graduate Exodus

The article today in El País in English makes sufficiently worrying reading that I have posted the link to it below. My life as a retired person is comfortable. That of many in the host community is not.

05/05/2014

El Día de la Cruz (The Day of the Cross)

May 3rd is celebrated each year as El Día de la Cruz. All over the village. people get together to make and decorate large floral crosses, which they then put on display in their neighbourhood or barrio. Musicians and dancers then make their way from cross to cross playing and dancing at each stop, and then partaking of the snacks which are on hand for those who come to admire the handiwork - the local wine, and various traditional, local tit-bits like chorizo, morcilla, tortilla and dulces or sweetmeats. These photos give you a flavour (forgive the pun) of the day.

25/04/2014

So, What DID I Cook At Home On Saturday Evening?

Going from the sublime to the pedestrian, on Saturday evening I looked at what was available that needed eating up, and then condiered how to turn it into a meal. The majority of what are considered traditional Spanish dishes are based in a history of poverty and frugality which comes in very useful on such occasions. I had a couple decent sized potatoes, some onions, garlic- obviously, half a red pepper and a fennel bulb. There were other things as well, of course, but these were the ingredients I chose.
So off I went; garlic peeled and chopped, one onion peeled, cut from top to bottom then sliced in half moons, ditto the fennel, and the red pepper cut into strips. Now a generous quantity of olive oil into a deepish frying pan and gently fry the onion, fennel and pepper. Then add the garlic and slice the potatoes into rounds about half a centimetre thick, lay them on top of the other ingredients and then just cover in chicken stock (nothing fancy, just a stock cube dissolved in boiling water), pop a lid on and leave to simmer gently for half an hour. Finally, remove the lid, turn up the heat and reduce the liquid by about three quarters and then season with salt and pepper, serve and savour - and that is Patatas a lo Pobre, poor man's potatoes.

20/04/2014

Fine Dining In Frigiliana



I have "borrowed" this photo from the FaceBook page of El Mirador, Frigiliana. Today I had intended to write about what I cooked at home yesterday evening. Then, this morning I changed my mind and thought I would write about how the rain washed out the Easter Sunday procession. Then - in that same rain - we walked up through the village to our favourite restaurant for an Easter Sunday lunch.
So now I have to tell you that this restaurant has a new chef, with a new menu, and has raised its game to a whole new level. My starter, a carpaccio of scallops dressed with chili amarilla (from Peru), Japanese Kombu and served with an Asian salad was astoundingly good. It was topped only by my main course - seared red tuna sashimi. My wfe was equally impressed by her warm chicken salad, followed by duck breast with foie gras.
On Trip Advisor, El Mirador usually trails in at around 12th out of forty plus village eateries, which is hugely misleading; the majority of visitors to the village are looking for either a) typical everyday Spanish food, b) a decent children's menu, c) reassuringly English food and/or d) modest prices. El Mirador offers none of these and so scores low. It offers a standard of food, service and location that you will rarely encounter outside Spain's major cities, and a wine list to match. I can't think of anywhere outside possibly Málaga where you would find a Vega Sicilia listed. El Mirador lists three, 1995, 1996 and 1997. For meaningful comparisons you have to look much wider than Frigiliana; this is now one of the top restaurants in the Province of Málaga, and it's worth travelling to.